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	<title>Comments on: Announcing the Summer Almanac for 2012</title>
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	<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/</link>
	<description>D.C.-based urban forestry non-profit dedicated to restoring, enhancing and protecting the tree canopy of the nation&#039;s capital.</description>
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		<title>By: Robert Thomas</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6655</link>
		<dc:creator>Robert Thomas</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Jul 2012 02:49:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6655</guid>
		<description>I notice some plant new trees with an inch wide pvc pipe that goes to the roots. Do you recommend this as a way to be sure water reaches the tree roots or is it intended to provide air?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I notice some plant new trees with an inch wide pvc pipe that goes to the roots. Do you recommend this as a way to be sure water reaches the tree roots or is it intended to provide air?</p>
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		<title>By: Oliver Pattison</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6493</link>
		<dc:creator>Oliver Pattison</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jun 2012 15:31:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6493</guid>
		<description>Listen to Jim, for sure - he&#039;s the expert!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Listen to Jim, for sure &#8211; he&#8217;s the expert!</p>
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		<title>By: Jim Woodworth</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6492</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim Woodworth</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jun 2012 15:23:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6492</guid>
		<description>Oliver is right on with our conventional wisdom, but since you already bought the tree, I will contradict him and suggest you get this tree in the ground ASAP.  Dig a hole 3x&#039;s as wide as the pot, and apply a generous layer of mulch around the planting area.  Water thoroughly twice a week for the next month, then reduced to weekly as necessary.  Otherwise, you will have to water the tree in the container every day to get it  to survive the summer and be ready for fall planting.  Plant it this weekend!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Oliver is right on with our conventional wisdom, but since you already bought the tree, I will contradict him and suggest you get this tree in the ground ASAP.  Dig a hole 3x&#8217;s as wide as the pot, and apply a generous layer of mulch around the planting area.  Water thoroughly twice a week for the next month, then reduced to weekly as necessary.  Otherwise, you will have to water the tree in the container every day to get it  to survive the summer and be ready for fall planting.  Plant it this weekend!</p>
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		<title>By: Jim Woodworth</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6491</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim Woodworth</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jun 2012 15:20:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6491</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m curious how young (or old) your tree is?  What rationale or justification did the Davey Tree plant health care professional provide for the spraying or the deep root fertilization? What are the soils like (wet/dry? sandy/clayey?)?  Were there any other disturbances (e.g. excavation of the root zone for new pipes?)?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m curious how young (or old) your tree is?  What rationale or justification did the Davey Tree plant health care professional provide for the spraying or the deep root fertilization? What are the soils like (wet/dry? sandy/clayey?)?  Were there any other disturbances (e.g. excavation of the root zone for new pipes?)?</p>
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		<title>By: Jim Woodworth</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6490</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim Woodworth</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jun 2012 15:16:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6490</guid>
		<description>Are you raising these trees as dwarf/bonsai trees?  IF not, then I would expect them to have limited life expectancies with the limited soil volumes of your containers.  Either way, we have very little experience with trees grown permanently as house plants or patio containers.  Good luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are you raising these trees as dwarf/bonsai trees?  IF not, then I would expect them to have limited life expectancies with the limited soil volumes of your containers.  Either way, we have very little experience with trees grown permanently as house plants or patio containers.  Good luck!</p>
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		<title>By: Oliver Pattison</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6349</link>
		<dc:creator>Oliver Pattison</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2012 17:13:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6349</guid>
		<description>Ooze Tubes, for example, are large enough that they can wrap around fairly large trees, although not the largest street trees. I&#039;m not sure if the slow-release watering bags would work well laid flat - their design requires them to be staked in the ground. We&#039;d be interested to know if you have a method for watering trees like that, though! 

There are a few other methods for watering trees, including setting a bucket with holes in it next the tree (to slowly release the water) or leaving a hose on a very slow trickle.

More tips on watering methods here: http://caseytrees.org/blog/how-to-water-your-trees-this-summer/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ooze Tubes, for example, are large enough that they can wrap around fairly large trees, although not the largest street trees. I&#8217;m not sure if the slow-release watering bags would work well laid flat &#8211; their design requires them to be staked in the ground. We&#8217;d be interested to know if you have a method for watering trees like that, though! </p>
<p>There are a few other methods for watering trees, including setting a bucket with holes in it next the tree (to slowly release the water) or leaving a hose on a very slow trickle.</p>
<p>More tips on watering methods here: <a href="http://caseytrees.org/blog/how-to-water-your-trees-this-summer/" rel="nofollow">http://caseytrees.org/blog/how-to-water-your-trees-this-summer/</a></p>
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		<title>By: Teresa</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6347</link>
		<dc:creator>Teresa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2012 17:01:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6347</guid>
		<description>Are the bladders appropriate for mature trees?  If it is too big for the trunk, would laying it out in a straight line under the tree canopy be useful to a large tree?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are the bladders appropriate for mature trees?  If it is too big for the trunk, would laying it out in a straight line under the tree canopy be useful to a large tree?</p>
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		<title>By: Oliver Pattison</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6235</link>
		<dc:creator>Oliver Pattison</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2012 14:37:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6235</guid>
		<description>&lt;strong&gt;@Lucy&lt;/strong&gt;
Young trees tend to not do well being planted in such hot weather. The survival rate probably isn&#039;t good for trees planted this late after the spring season, although I&#039;m not sure about the particular species. Our organization generally stops planting trees after early May and begins again in October.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>@Lucy</strong><br />
Young trees tend to not do well being planted in such hot weather. The survival rate probably isn&#8217;t good for trees planted this late after the spring season, although I&#8217;m not sure about the particular species. Our organization generally stops planting trees after early May and begins again in October.</p>
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		<title>By: Oliver Pattison</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6234</link>
		<dc:creator>Oliver Pattison</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2012 14:18:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6234</guid>
		<description>&lt;strong&gt;@Dennis&lt;/strong&gt;
They can be ordered from &lt;a href=&quot;http://caseytrees.org/donate/shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;our online store&lt;/a&gt; and picked up at our office.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>@Dennis</strong><br />
They can be ordered from <a href="http://caseytrees.org/donate/shop" rel="nofollow">our online store</a> and picked up at our office.</p>
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		<title>By: Ace</title>
		<link>http://caseytrees.org/blog/announcing-the-summer-almanac-for-2012/#comment-6233</link>
		<dc:creator>Ace</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jun 2012 14:13:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://caseytrees.org/?p=5895#comment-6233</guid>
		<description>Alas, I have had to move ALL my trees -- ginkgoes, fringe trees, yong magnolia, fig (fruit bearing variety) and maple -- indoors because they are about to paint, re-glass and refinish the floor on my apt&#039;s balcony. The tops of the fringe trees and the magnolia are becoming dried up -- I thnk I need to prune those dead areas and I worry that things will get worse before the balcony work is done. Sad because I raised all these trees with the best of care and they were flourishing before they had to be moved indoors. They get sunlight for about 2 hrs a day --  and one batch of the trees (they were moved into 2 different areas of the living room) are also getting artificial plant light. I hope they recover once I am able to put them back outdoors (in about 2 or 3 weeks)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Alas, I have had to move ALL my trees &#8212; ginkgoes, fringe trees, yong magnolia, fig (fruit bearing variety) and maple &#8212; indoors because they are about to paint, re-glass and refinish the floor on my apt&#8217;s balcony. The tops of the fringe trees and the magnolia are becoming dried up &#8212; I thnk I need to prune those dead areas and I worry that things will get worse before the balcony work is done. Sad because I raised all these trees with the best of care and they were flourishing before they had to be moved indoors. They get sunlight for about 2 hrs a day &#8212;  and one batch of the trees (they were moved into 2 different areas of the living room) are also getting artificial plant light. I hope they recover once I am able to put them back outdoors (in about 2 or 3 weeks)</p>
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